Dunvegan

Our accommodation is very near Dunvagan Castle, which we visted many, many years ago, but it was closed. But first, breakfast with our view.

Today we can make amends for all those years ago, and we do. It looks like the first day for a while where we will not get too wet. The clouds are hanging low, and there is a very fresh breeze, but no rain as yet. We are all suffering from colds, with Kate about 8/10 on the “ill Scale” (10 being the worst), Marc at 6/10 (but as I’m male, make that 9/10) and Kirsty at a healthy 3/10.

The Castle is still used as a residence, so it is mostly only the lower floors that are open as a museum about the MacLeod family. Although they sided with the Government during the uprisings, there were many artefacts on display from the Jacobite side ( the Highlanders in support of Bonnie Prince Charles) as his famous accomplice, Flora McDonald, became the mother-in-law of the tutor of one of the MacLeod children!

It is a very interesting place, but it must be bleak in the middle of winter. There are extensive gardens to explore. It was a great morning topped off with coffee and cake in a local Dunvegan cafe.

We decided to head to Portree in search of lunch and to have a look around. We all stayed there in 1999 over Xmas, so we were keen to see the pretty little fishing village with the painted houses again. It is famous in lots of photos to do with Skye.

It turns out that it has become too famous, a tourist trap of the worst kind. There is nothing endearing about the place now, just bus loads of people milling around. Every dining place was full to the brim, and even the little take away cafe we finally found had a queue out the door. Unfortunately, the food wasn’t worth waiting for. Our advice if you are over this way, skip it.

We beat a hasty retreat back to Dunvegan, but stopped on the way at a graveyard where supposedly at least 28 Clan MacLeod leaders are buried as from 1079. If they are there, they are well hidden under overgrown grass, trees and gorse. It really was a surprise to see it so unkempt, but it certainly had at atmosphere.

The afternoon was spent napping for those on the “iIl Scale” above 5/10. We had to be fit for tonights indulgence.

Tonight we headed to the Three Chimneys Restaurant, about 1 mile up the road from us. We booked the kitchen table, which as the name implies, is in the kitchen. There are 4 Americans and us. They were anti-Trump, so all good. American Pete is a pilot with United and he knows Sydney almost better than we do.

It was a great experience being so close to the action. All the chefs were very approachable and we were free to wander but not to get in the road. We all remained seated, mostly. Kate and I choose the wine flights to match the food, which turned out to be a good decision, as it added to the experience. Our waiter was charming and very informative, whilst being friendly and relaxed. The chefs explained each course to us, and were happy to answer any questions. Great fun.